Skipping up the Coast

David looking at charts

After lazing about for the day and watching the big surf hit shores at San Simeon, at 6 pm on Saturday afternoon, we set out up the coast to pass Point Sur in the night.  On our trip down the coast last fall, we had a rolling sled ride down past Point Sur with high winds over 20 kts, short and steep waves, and overall conditions that I’d not want to be motoring against going up the coast.  I was nervous on this trip since the weather forecast by NOAA and other forecasting services last fall for our passing of Point Sur was for no wind but yet we had much!  This time, the forecast was also for very little wind (2-6 kts with a few bouts of 10-15 kts) so I kept my fingers crossed.  This time, all was well and good.  We motor sailed into less than 5 knots the entire way passing Point Sur around 2:30 in the morning.  We decided to bypass Monterrey and continue on to Pillar Point Harbor at Half Moon Bay.  We dropped the hook in the harbor just past noon.

We sat back and watched the holiday antics of many boaters nearby.  Pillar Point is an enjoyable place to be.  New things include the newly restored Monterrey Clipper fishing boat that seemed to be ferrying tourists around the harbor.  We know the fellow who worked on the restoration so we’re hopeful to go and track him down sometime before we depart the harbor and talk to him about the successful project.  Several cruising boats were in for the holiday weekend including a very large aluminum hulled boat with three children aboard and a life-sized skeleton hanging on a noose above the transom.  Nice boat, poor taste in decor.  The small boat center seemed to have kayaking classes ongoing and we were visited by a family in a wooden outrigger canoe.  All-in-all a nice afternoon of bay-watching.

This morning, we’re still lazing about.  It’s chilly so I’m sitting in our chart house bed with the down comforter all puffy around me.  Heavenly.  However, we are likely to have visitors since people (yes, strangers) often stop in and ask questions about Mahdee when we visit a new harbor, so I’d best put away the bed and make things “decent” here in the chart house. I’m really enjoying cooking on our gimbaled Taylors kerosene stove.  We purchased the stove a few months ago from a friend (he had found an even nicer kero stove for his boat) and now we have the ability to cook huge meals on the wood/coal Shipmate or use the Taylors while underway or for smaller fare–like breakfast this morning!

Fair winds,

Finally Internet Access

So, let’s see…we were busy as could be doing all the “stuff” and dealing with the antics of the cars prior to sailing away from San Diego.  After a last round of using up all the anchoring permits we could, running through freebie recips at the various yacht clubs and buying way too much food for the trip, on Monday we motored Mahdee down to Fiddlers’ Cove, filled up the water, said goodbye to some friends who we will likely not see for many years unless they travel to see us, and set sail for San Francisco via the Channel Islands.  The sailing has been by and large motor sailing since the winds have been against us or nonexistent.

We did have a few hours of nice sailing giving us 7+ knots course made good but then the wind died and we were back to motor sailing.  During this trip, we’ve enjoyed the backside of Catalina Island and then the Southern side of Santa Cruz Island.  However, the large Southern swell due to an Antartic weather system unexpectedly brought big-big surge to the Channel Islands on Wednesday.  At Coches Preitos, the small protected anchorage was turned into a raging whirlpool as the big surf crested over the protective reef and into the small area.  We anchored outside the anchorage in the deeper water and watched this force of nature with awe.  The night did end up being rolly with the swell passing through but we figured that it was as good as any anchorage within easy daylight range would have been.

Our passing of Point Conception was uneventful but the conditions were much more exciting than on the trip up in May 2010 or down in October 2010.  Seas were quite impressive with that long period South swell as well as a shorter period NW swell plus wind waves.  Hard to estimate size–but just the sort of “wow” size that makes you wonder what you’re doing out there on this particular day.

We motor sailed beating close to the wind achieving between 5.5 and 7 knots speed over ground with 15 knots of NW wind against us.  Rather than just sheet in the sails and straight on motor (using the sails for steadying only) we decided to tack our way up around the cape of Points Conception and Arguello.  It was easy on the motor and our fuel budget–plus–it was more fun, but I imagine that we would have made similar or better time just bashing straight into the wind and seas motoring.  Plenty of waves washing up onto the foredeck so we’re nice and squeaky clean (saltwater though) from all the water running on deck.

There was a North-bound (Washington State) catamaran motoring around the cape with us and they called us on radio around Conception to figure out what we were doing–going further out?  finding waves to big out there? as we tacked back towards them.  In the charthouse, David and I chuckled because motoring the cat North they didn’t use their sails to steady the boat as we did–and of course if one has sails up to steady the boat, one might as well sail (and tack), right?  So as we scorched back and forth ahead of them they were pretty much keeping up with us and we had to constantly keep an eye out for their position.  Later in the dark evening, as we headed back inshore on a tack coming close to them, the owner hailed us again on the radio letting us know where he was and that he’d make sure we’d pass in front of them–we declined and said we’d be coming about before crossing their path again.  We came about, headed further offshore, and slowed the engine speed so that we were only making 4.5 to 5 knots COG and we figured we’d not see them again as they would be ahead of us for the night and likely for the rest of our trip.

I took the first night watch and since we were still tacking and sailing along in fluctuating and dying winds, I would shine a flashlight on the sails when we weren’t heeling enough or boat speed was slowing (every 10-15 minutes) to see how well they were drawing and if change were needed.   Sailing from inside the chart house with the motor running, it is impossible to hear the little sounds of the leech flutter or other tell-tale signs that things aren’t quite right.  The only changes I can easily make from inside involve changing heading to better suit the fluctuating winds as I’d have to go outside to the cockpit to adjust the sails.  However, it is warm and dry inside and much less tiring a watch position than sitting out in the more exposed cockpit.  My flashing of a light onto the sails must have piqued the curiosity of another nearby mariner as I was hailed near midnight by a yacht delivery skipper bringing a boat from San Francisco to San Diego; he asked if all was well and we chatted a moment about his flux-gate compass problems and the weather as he’d just seen the North and I’d just seen the South.   He asked if we were a private vessel and seemed surprised when I said we were–but then I realized that he was close enough that he could easily see our full schooner rig, gaff and all, and usually these days, a boat looking like ours would be owned by a foundation or museum–not privately owned.

I reflected on the old saying “ships passing in the night” as it implies that no communication takes place but yet with so few boats sailing up and down the California coast, while during the day tye may pass without communication, during the dark of night, almost every one hails the other and gets the scoop on where the other is going and if anything is needed.

In the wee morning hours, we heard a distant call on the radio from what seemed to be that same catamaran we’d seen earlier in the evening; they were saying we were on their (?port?) bow.  We frantically searched for them since we were in a fog bank and becoming quite concerned that we weren’t seeing anything.  We decided they must be seeing a different vessel and thinking it was us or they had excellent radar since we never did see them again.

With little traffic there wasn’t much worry–the AIS showed no shipping traffic and we had our loud hailer PA giving others a fog signal to let them know we were here, but without radar, we do feel a little vulnerable in these situations.

The fog lasted until after daylight but luckily burned off near San Simeon where we planned to anchor.  And, here we sit–Internet access finally–and I’m typing this little update before we take off up the Big Sur coastline.  We’d originally intended to not stop in Monterrey but that unexpected Southern swell has made much of the SW facing coastline of California experience large surf and it is moving up the coast pretty much as we are–and thus all the anchorage spots we like will be too uncomfortable and rolling for good sleeping.  As I recall, we didn’t have good Internet access from the Monterrey anchorage so it will likely be a few days before any further updates come along. We will hope that the Pillar Point Harbor entrance is good by the time we get there since we really enjoy visiting Half Moon Bay. More later…

Three Things

There are three things I seem to write about:

1.  Pretty birds, starfish, wildlife

2.  Projects

3.  Howling winds

Today, we’ll talk about all three.  We’ve had more than our share of lovely days with nifty little birds hanging around the boat.  I’m sure they’re wanting to be fed (we never feed these birds) but, still, they’re so cute.  I rowed David and his bike to shore so he can meet up with a friend (at a mooring field a few miles away) to practice sailing the friend’s boat for an upcoming race.  All I can say is “yahoo, we won’t have to race OUR boat!” even while David gets his go-fast-and-heel-too-far-fix.  On the way back to the boat, I was surrounded by the little loon looking birdies.  They look like miniature loons and certainly dive like them too.

Once back on the boat, I got to work on my part of the settee project:  more paint and varnish.  I had the two large pieces of plywood that make up the underside of the port-side pilot berth outside for painting whilst I painted the bulkhead adjacent the berth.  All the mahogany has 3 coats of varnish (or is it 4?) and thus I’ve moved on to painting the adjacent surfaces.  Once I got the big sheets of 9mm plywood covered in paint and delicately balanced on little scraps of wood on the fore deck, the winds decided to start blowing very hard and I wondered if perhaps my plywood was going to fly away.  I couldn’t weight it down but I did angle it so the leading edge (towards the anchored front of the boat) was positioned on low blocks while the trailing edge was higher so the wind would hopefully push the plywood down rather than lift it up.  It seemed to work.

That wind did really howl though.  Later in the afternoon, while I was below decks I heard a sharp toot on an airhorn and thought that either there’s a race starting adjacent Mahdee or someone is signaling me.  I popped up on deck and found David and Don flying by Mahdee in the 40′ or so sail boat they’ll be racing next week.  As they spun circles around me, I asked what they were doing here in the quiet anchorage rather than out in the windier bay or even the ocean.  “Too windy” they said with grins plastered on their faces.  I’d swear they were drinking but know that Don doesn’t keep alcohol on the boat so I figured they were just drunk with the exhilarating winds of the day.

Last  night the winds died into a lovely calm but today they’ve whipped back up into a nice little torrent of noise in the rigging and slapping waves on the hull.  Too much wind to put another coat of paint on the plywood so I had to resort to other projects–paperwork this go ’round.

So, there we have it–cute birds, projects, and howling winds.

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