Sunrise as we’re pulling up anchor at Port San Luis.
Three starfish were attached to our anchor at Port San Luis.
Waves breaking on shore at Cojo Anchorage.
The drainage culvert under the railroad tracks that all the cruising guides refer to as a landmark for anchoring at Cojo. Pretty much covered with sand.
Well, we finally left Port San Luis on Friday am. Very uneventful trip. No real wind for the first half of the trip and thus we motor sailed with main and jib, no foresail or staysail. The wind was from the NW and the NW swell was 7-9 ft at 15 or so seconds to start and quickly ending up with 9-10 ft swell at very long period (guessing 20-25 seconds) which was quite comfortable. Later in the day, as we approached Point Conception, the winds were up nicely (but not terrific) and we continued to motorsail without hoisting the 500 sf gaff foresail because I kept expecting winds to really kick up and us to have to just take that sail back down again. Hindsight is 20/20 and we could have had that sail up all day long and possibly not motorsailed for the last half of the day.
Though most folks experience lots of wind and waves near Points Arguello and Conception, there was nothing exciting about getting around the two and settled into Cojo anchorage other than seeing the big breakers around Government Point and all along the beaches. Of course, seeing the two “permanent” residents of Cojo–a couple sailboats wrecked ashore–really wasn’t appealing or settling either. Passing by the three big oil-company moorings, one with a large service vessel moored–we threaded our way through the kelp to anchor between the kelp and the shore. A sailboat with the Navy Yacht Club San Diego burgee (our club) was already anchored there. We “buzzed” them on the way into the anchorage but they were below decks and didn’t come topside nor responded to radio so it remained a mystery as to who they are. We anchored to the north and east of them. Then, after us, a large and well equipped Nordhaven trawler came in and anchored to the east of us. Finally, a little oil service launch came zipping in and anchored very close to the shore with the wrecked boats to the Northwest of us. We were happy to be surrounded by anchor lights for reference. We lit a few reading candles and unwound from the day’s sail. I set up my little Nokia “anchor watch” configuration on the companionway step beside the double bed (it resides under the port settee) that we use in the charthouse while at anchor. Just after I got in bed and David was relaxing by reading, I could see our formerly arching anchor track moving due West. The wind had shifted, was picking up, and now was coming from the East. Then, ESE and by the howling in the rigging, at least 25-30 knots. I put back on my clothes, as did David, expecting we might have to move the boat in the night. David slept in his clothes and I sat up half the night until I was convinced that we wouldn’t drag ashore and add to the collection of wrecked boats (on the lee shore) now directly downwind of us. When the winds subsided, I went to bed with one eye on the anchor watch GPS the remainder of the night. Neither David nor I got much sleep. I’d hoped he’d be able to–since normally he sleeps like a log through anything. But not that night.
We’d planned on sailing to San Miguel Island on Friday October 1st but leaving San Miguel on the 2nd to avoid big winds and seas that should be sweeping into the Northern Channel Islands on late night of the 3rd and the 4th. Alas, the NOAA weather/swell forecasts were for large short period swells at San Miguel on Friday, increasing on Saturday and staying big for several days. If we went to San Miguel, we’d very likely be stuck there in the Cuyler Harbor through the upcoming storm and likely for about a week. So, reluctantly, we set a course for Santa Cruz Island figuring we’d explore it for an extra day. Ah, after only an hour or so of motor sailing (winds were less than 5 knots and coming from directly where we needed to go (SE) and Mahdee was doing 1.4 knots under sail alone…calculate 45 miles to go plus add a bit for tacking and figure we’d never make it in one day!) a special weather message came up on the VHF radio for the Eastern Santa Barbara Channel warning that the area thunderstorms, etc, were centered on Santa Cruz and Anacapa Islands, there was cloud to water lightening to be expected, and oh yes, waterspouts and what to do if we encountered a waterspout. Oh, yes, and mariners were advised to head for safe harbor.
Well, that just did it. We were tired and fed up with fickle weather. We decided we’d go see Santa Barbara. We headed that direction and when we came within EVDO range, I hooked up the computer and downloaded some weather/wind mapping. Winds out of the south expected 10/3. So, if we went to Santa Barbara, to have good rest we’d want to be IN the harbor rather than in the anchorage with a lee shore to the North. So, even though it looked to be a lovely day and we had no wind to speak of, we figured we’d use this as our “excuse” to spend money on a slip. Thus, we sailed and motorsailed the 40 miles to Santa Barbara Harbor, procured a slip for a couple days, took long luxury showers, walked over to Sterns Wharf and had fish tacos/fish and chips and generally enjoyed last evening as “tourists” and now–sitting with shore power–I’m about to hook up the washer and do a few loads of laundry–sheets and towels. Santa Barbara is surrounded by lovely mountains. It’s really a spectacular sight and we’re glad that we’ve stopped in here. Today, a short walk over to the Maritime Museum and up to the grocery store. And, of course, a walk around the docks to see the lovely boats around us. Ah, and we’ll have to find the boat with the NYCSD burgee as we saw them leaving the courtesy dock (to go to a slip) just as we arrived.
Amazingly, a lot can be accomplished while one is sitting around an anchorage twiddling one’s thumbs. Huh? you might ask. What am I talking about? Well, lets see. We had a nice sail down the coast from San Simeon to Port San Luis. The day started off with fog and a slow go (4 knots) but after a couple hours the fog burned off, the wind was steady and we sailed downwind at between 6 and 8 knots most of the way. Towards the end of the afternoon, winds were kicking up and we were seeing something closer to 10 knots. My goal was to average 5 knots to make it to Port San Luis by sunset and we had no problems meeting that.
The waves were forecast for 6-8 ft swell/12 s and 1-3 ft wind waves. Pretty much that was it. After getting into the calm of Port San Luis, we anchored, kicked back and expected to stay an extra day because the forecast was for 9-11 ft swell/13 s with 2 ft wind wave which we really didn’t feel like going ’round Pt Arguello and Pt Conception in. We figured we’d wait for the day afters’ smaller 7-9 swell/13 s +2 windwaves. We noted that the same trawler we’d seen anchored in Carmel and who’d shown up for a night in San Simeon was already anchored here at Port San Luis. We’d heard him on the radio talking to another trawler about his plan to be at Dana Point (just North of San Diego) on October 1st. So, figured he’d be waiting out the same swell as us. Indeed he did. We waited, waited, waited. Now it’s been 4 days of waiting. In theory we’ll be leaving tomorrow morning (the 5th day). We’d planned on leaving today and when we went to bed last night I secured everything so that all we’d have to do is jump up, haul the anchor, grab coffee and a granola bar and go.
However, bang, bang, bang in the night the big rollers came into the harbor. Around midnight I checked the weather–a new Small Craft Advisory for big seas was set by NOAA/NWS for the night with West swells of 12-13 ft at 13 second interval plus wind from the Northwest. I turned off the alarm clock and slept in today. It turns out the seas mellowed out and were 8-10 at 14s in the morning and nearby buoy readings were around 7 ft at a wonderfully long 22 s in the afternoon/evening. Ah…tomorrow should be good.
So, what does one get done while hanging out “waiting” at anchor? This time, I sewed a section of bolt rope that was loosening on the foresail, re-connected a privateer knot on the foot of the mainsail, David re-did a downhaul on the mainsail and we did a few other little maintenance things. The BIG thing that happened was we turned on the EU2000 and spent hours and hours and hours playing with the SSB radio as well as three different weather fax (on computer) programs on three different computers and four different operating systems (my laptop has Windows7 as well as Ubuntu Linux dual boot, David’s computer has Debian Linux, the Nokia N810 using MAEMO). After all the playing around, we managed to finally get the best weatherfax images with an open source program called HamFax on my laptop running Ubuntu.
The other “notable” thing was that we managed to finally get the wireless router set up so my EVDO cel phone attached to my laptop running Ubuntu rather than Windows can provide Internet access for anything on the boat (e.g. David’s Nokia or any other computer turned on). In the past, I’d have to pull out my old Sony Vaio notebook computer and have it act as the EVDO access point. Small but important to get that done. Now, we can tear apart the Vaio, finally installing its new hard drive and take the old Windows 95 OS off without worry that the boat will be offline. This particular project has been just hanging out there for far too long.
Final stuff done–catching up with professional (and non-professional) reading. I think we’re all the way up to the periodicals in April/May 2010. Amazing. A few more days stuck at anchor with not much to do and we might be “current.”
Port San Luis has some lovely sunsets.
