What’s with all the dread?

When we first envisioned the Mahdee project, we perhaps naively pictured ourselves sitting on lawn chairs at the boat yard, drinking margaritas while listening to Jimmy Buffet on the boom box and watching the professional progress of the yard workers returning Mahdee to the sound sea-going vessel she once was. Ah, that was a nice vision. All too soon we realized that the vision was going to be an unrealized fantasy. At first, we questioned the professionals at the yard. We thought that with a little more guidance on our part, the project would move swiftly on the proper path.

Then, we considered switching boats–scrapping Mahdee and buying a boat with less deterioration. We had already spent the better part of a year looking at boats before we found Mahdee. After spending some more weeks looking at other candidate boats, we couldn’t help but see that Mahdee was the right boat for us. So why wasn’t the project going the way we expected? Perhaps it was us. Reflecting, I recognized that for the last 20 years I have only rarely been able to let someone else fix my cars–no one else seems to do the job right. We also remembered that when we bought our 1926 house, we expected to hire the workers that would restore the house to its former glory. Brenda and I ended up doing almost all of the work because no one else seemed capable unless they charged 10 times what we thought the job was worth. Faced with a deadline for completing the house restoration we eventually did hire some workers, but we very closely managed the work. Maybe we were incapable of just sitting back and watching others work on anything we owned or cared about.

The professionals at the first boatyard working on Mahdee were definitely credentialed enough and had distinct opinions on how things should be done. At first, it was clear that the work in the yard was not well structured. Both Brenda and I have excellent management skills acquired from our working careers. We both knew that a poorly managed complex project like Mahdee will have expensive consequences. Improperly sequenced work was threatening to paint us into a corner from which the only way out would be expensive rework. Brenda and I were worrying and questioning everything to anticipate those expensive corners. Because we were on a tight time schedule, logistics was also critical. The boatyard seem unconcerned about the consequences of running out of critical materials such as bolts or castings which have long lead times or cost a fortune–after all, we, not they, were solely responsible for the costs.

The more we worked to anticipate future work, the more we saw the flaws. The boatyard prided itself on traditional methods. Unfortunately, many of the traditional materials are not what they used to be. Subtle changes in the materials made some of the traditional methods worse than useless. As trained engineers, Brenda and I saw this. The boatyard workers were convinced that old methods were still best.

So the next step was to take full control of the Mahdee project. That was when we moved Mahdee to a different boatyard. Full control means full responsibility and thus, all the stress over the consequences of our decisions. Since this is our first wooden boat project, we must rely fully upon our research into the trade, our engineering skills with the ability to assess stresses, strains and material properties, and our project management and logistics skills. We are no slouches, but we must admit there is still lots of room for errors–just look at the problems with the space shuttle, arguably built with access to the most technologically advanced materials and labor.

The problem with rebuilding or building a boat is that there is not much room for error. There are lots of ways for a boat to sink. We only get one chance. When it comes time to launch Mahdee, we will put her in the water and she had better float. When that happens, we will have spent two years of our life working on Mahdee. There are some procedures we will have repeated hundreds of times like spilling and planing the many planks on her hull. It would be disastrous to realize we should have done something slightly different to keep the boat from sinking–for example that a slightly different flick of the wrist while planing those planks would have made those planks fit and seal completely. Once we put Mahdee in the water, some small mistakes will probably be fixable, but much of the work is non-accessible. It would be a great financial strain to have to pull her back out of the water and send her back to the boatyard for major rework.

On the other hand, building a wooden boat is not rocket science. People with far less skill and education have been building wooden boats for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. While the many successes don’t generate much press, there have been a few spectacular failures–Sweden’s Wasa and Britain’s Mary Rose come to mind. The sinking of the Wasa was a financial disaster for Sweden that resulted in the invention of the deep diving bell so that some of the expensive canons could be recovered. Mahdee would be a similar financial disaster for us and I don’t know what kind of technology we would need to invent to recoup some of our loss. So maybe it is like rocket science, for us not unlike rocket failures that result in very expensive explosions. But at least we are completely in control of our destiny, even if, like the Wasa, its at the bottom of the harbor. Now, if I can just get over the dread.

More dread tasks –the rudder shaft hole

If the propeller shaft log hole was stressful, then the rudder shaft hole almost induced catatonic shutdown. After all, if the engine was a little off the centerline of the boat, it wasn’t too big of a deal–just install the stringers over to the side some (and worse come to worse, move the head:)). First, the hole for the rudder shaft is bigger–almost 3 1/2 inches. There are no plates to seal the ends like the propeller shaft (which has a stuffing box and stern bearing). The rudder stock goes through a pipe which relies upon being tightly screwed into the tailfeather using its pipe threads. On its angle, the pipe threads through 12 inches of purple heart tailfeather (the tailfeather is not 12 inches thick in the shortest direction). The 4 foot pipe has less than 1/8 inch clearance between it and the rudder stock and the rudder stock must be centered at the top of the pipe where the seal is and, most importantly, line up exactly with the gudgeon on the bottom of the keel in both lateral and vertical directions. The keel, unlike the engine bed, is not something that is movable and the 2 1/2 inch diameter bronze rudder stock does not bend. Further, if the rudder angle is too steep, the Robinson worm gear will hit and potentially stick out the back of the transom. If the angle is too shallow, the Robinson work gear will hit the aft deck beams. The boat design has the gear almost brushing the bottom of the deck beams and touching the transom knees. No room for error at all.

I could put off the drilling of the hole as long as we didn’t have the rudder stock. I was almost happy that the manufacturer lost the old stock and didn’t make the new one until Brenda supplied them with a full sized printout from the plans. With the arrival of the new rudder stock, and given that we had some leftover 3 inch oak, John was eager to build the rudder. I realized the day of reckoning was here. The first pilot hole, made with braces and supports to duplicate the original hole wasn’t quite right. The top wasn’t centered on the tailfeather and the orientation put the bottom of the rudder stock somewhere off to port of the gudgeon. When I had a pilot hole going the right direction, I needed to fill in the voids to keep the drill guide from wandering off. I used a 7 foot long 5/8 inch diameter Pam-coated bronze rod to define the axis, sealed the bottom with leftover deck canvas and poured epoxy around the rod from the top. And, yes, that’s Pam, the cooking oil–it keeps things from sticking.

I tested several different hole saws in some scraps and as luck would have it, the 3 3/8 inch hole saw from the home store seemed about right. Because of the entry angle into the tailfeather, I needed a long 5/8″ center guide. I made one by drilling an old broken 5/8″ drill bit and pressing a 1/4 inch bit into the hole. It looked odd, but did the trick. This time, I didn’t have an auger close enough in size to remove the wood from within the hole saws cutting. I used a couple of different hole saws to remove material and then followed up with my old standby 2 1/4 inch chaser. I still had to chisel out some wood. But, several hours later, I had a hole all the way through.

I wanted to use the bronze rudder stock as a guide for screwing in the pipe to ensure alignment. But, before the 10 foot long rudder stock could be put into the hole in the tailfeather, a hole was needed in the ground under the boat. When we pulled Mahdee out of the water 18 months ago and moved Mahdee to the original yard, the yard owner said not to worry about the rudder until Mahdee was in the yard because we could dig a hole for removing the rudder. When Mahdee was in her resting spot in that yard, he informed us that, oops, we had a sewer main directly below the rudder. That was annoying, but once it was decided that we were going to replace the tailfeather we were able to remove the rudder by cutting it out of the tailfeather. How we were going to be able to reinstall the rudder was not figured out before we decided to remove Mahdee from that yard. In the new yard, Mahdee sits on gravel and the owner gave us permission to dig a hole. Others in the yard warned that the boat yard sits on an old used car dump with clay and gravel on top of the old cars. We were lucky that John owned a nifty jack hammer that made digging the 4 foot deep hole, much, much easier. We didn’t hit anything metal or really solid which caused one of the boatyard wags to comment that since we hit no metal car roofs we lucked out: that the rudder shaft must line up with the top of an old convertible.

John and I struggled to get the 200+ pound shaft into the hole and discovered that I dug an inch too shallow of a hole. John asked why I hadn’t measured, but I had. I then realized I forgot to add in the 1 1/2 inch for the gudgeon pin. A little more jack hammering and digging and the hole was deep enough. But, it didn’t line up enough to get the stock through the tailfeather. Some more digging and more struggling with the stock and it was in. At one point, John and I fantasized that we would build up the oak rudder on the bronze stock and get it all faired and glued up on the bench before putting it on the boat. The two of us could barely lift just the stock up and onto the gudgeon, so we went to plan “b.” My plan “b” is where John gets to figure out how to attach, build up and fair the rudder with the stock on the boat. Meanwhile, we leave the ditch just in case we need to go to plan “c.” I was also in favor of delaying threading the pipe into the tailfeather, but John wouldn’t let me get away with that procrastination. With the two of us armed with giant pipe wrenches and 5′ extender bars, we were just able to thread that pipe into the tailfeather. It most certainly isn’t too loose, and it didn’t split the tailfeather apart which was John’s fear.

The best part is that the alignment with the gudgeon is great and it appears that the steering gear will fit without any modifications to the transom or deck beams. It is really, really exciting to finally have a rudder on Mahdee.

Dread tasks –the propeller shaft hole

There are certain jobs that cause high levels of dread. As a rule, any task involving drilling large holes through the underwater part of the hull invokes dread. That is especially true when the hole goes through a really valuable, critical part of the boat. As previously described, the “tailfeather” is one of those parts and it has two very large holes–one for the rudder shaft and one for the propeller shaft. The propeller shaft hole was very stressful because the diameter had to be exactly correct (don’t want sea water rushing into Mahdee from around the shaft log), the vertical angle needed to match the transmission output so the engine sits correctly and the horizontal line of the shaft should coincide with the centerline of Mahdee.

To get an idea of the tolerances of the latter, consider that the drilled hole is about 2 1/2 feet long, but the front end of the engine is about 8 feet in front of the hole. The engine should ideally sit on the centerline of the boat for several reasons: good thrust axis, good weight and balance, good aesthetics. But in addition to aesthetics, the front of the engine is adjacent to the head on Mahdee. It doesn’t take much of a twitch when drilling a 2 1/2 foot long hole before the front end of that engine is shifted into the head. The last thing one needs on a boat is a spinning V belt near your backside while using the head.

It took many different drill bits to get the hole right–two different pilot holes of 5/8 inch diameter (before I was happy with the lineup), then because we didn’t have just the right sized 2 3/8 inch auger, I used a 2 3/8 inch hole saw running on a 5/8 inch guide to track the pilot hole and followed by a 2 1/4 chaser to auger out the center of the hole. The final diameter of the hole was perfect. The two ends required some counter boring to make room for the fat end of the stuffing box and stern bearing fittings. John and I had to work hard to pound in the shaftlog, so it is tight and hopefully water tight.

The drilled hole seems a success (one can never be certain until the acid test of launching the boat), and the front end of the engine is only about 1/2 inch to right of centerline (opposite the side of the boat with the head in case you are wondering). Ultimately, we won’t know how far off the engine is until after we relaunch. As the wood takes up moisture, the alignment of the engine will change. We also increased the vertical angle of the shaftlog bore to better match the transmission output angle. And, I finally got the nerve to seal and tighten up the stuffing box fitting and stern bearing. Those two also required lag bolts.

If there is any consistent challenge with Mahdee its figuring out how to get all the bolts and fasteners into her without hitting each other. We had previously moved floor number 41 to the aft side of the frames, so we didn’t have to worry about the stuffing box bolts hitting the floor drifts. But, there are 3 big bolts for the tailfeather near the aft end, 2 of which pass around the shaftlog and one starts just above it. The new stern bearing was slightly narrower than the old one and the bottom two stern bearing bolts lined up with those 2 tailfeather bolts. Fortunately, I was able to angle the stern bearing bolts outward and missed hitting the tailfeather bolts. Of course that required machining an area on the stern bearing so that the bolts were flat against the bronze. Nothing is ever as simple as it should be.

But now that that dread task is over, I can get to work on the engine stringers. I didn’t want to install the engine bed on centerline and then discover that the extended propeller shaft required the engine to be somewhere else…

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